The beginning of our festive food journey in Essen takes us from a ham sandwich stall to our first bratwurst stand. The warm glow of the crackling fire draws our attention as the first bratwursts sizzle on the grill, watched intently by eager onlookers. We stroll down Kettwigerstraße, a charming sloped shopping street that leads away from the train station, adorned with a delightful mix of shops and festive food stalls. Amidst our exploration, we encounter the majestic Essen Minster, a monastery steeped in history dating back to the 9th century. Its elongated form juts out into the shopping street and draws attention from the merry crowd. Juxtaposed against the shops and commercial activity, it reminds us of collective and human activity from our present time to almost a millennium past. Just like that one gemstone in a large necklace, the Essen minster shines with its architectural splendor. Gothic windows, wide and tall, rise towards the ceiling in this Gothic hall church reconstructed in modern times. The Essen Abbey was founded around 845 when Europe was still in early medieval times.
Traces of its medieval past
Lingering smoke from roasted chestnuts rises lazily into the air, while streams of people weave their way from one food stall to the next. Our purpose here is simple: to savor delicious treats, enjoy a leisurely stroll, and listen to nostalgic renditions of 80s and 90s pop songs, both German and international. As we wander the streets of Essen, we tread upon ground rich with history, first settled in the days when an abbey was founded in the ninth century. Throughout the centuries of medieval times and propelled into the age of Renaissance and then industrialisation, Essen has remained and is nowadays one of the ten largest cities in Germany. It is clear that its geographical location was a recipe for success. The city is located in a central location in the Ruhr area with two rivers that flow through the city, the Ruhr river from the south, and the Emscher river from the north. Geography does count after all when time decides whether a city will thrive and succeed as a habitat.
For us hungry visitors the concepts of geography and history are naturally lost in the moment as we sniff out the delicatesses being served right and left. The food stalls in Essen create a discovery route of cuisine from the region. Like a treasure cove, the Kennedyplatz opens up in front of us, with lines and lines of food stalls serving delicatesses. The Christmas market delicatesse mushrooms in garlic sauce served with a small piece of white bread stand out. Then again, the meaty bratwursts are a staple and to be found all along the shopping street and the large square turned into a festive Christmas celebration. In essence, Essen's Kennedyplatz may very well be the prize so heavily sought after by travelers seeking out the Christmas atmosphere come December.
The Christmas market in Essen also celebrates its medieval past. We run into a smithy where the roaring fire is tamed by a smith as he grunts when hammering red hot iron. There are leather goods and proper taverns to frequent. Yes, indeed, Essen connects the sprawling cultural history of the region of past and present very well.
Contemporary tunes of Christmas warmth
Somewhere the first notes of Wham's “Last Christmas” bounce between the tarp roofs of an outside bar serving gluhwein. We sip, and smirk as we let our muscles release after the cold tension. Standing there around a round table with warm porcelain cups warming our hands, we find a moment's peace. The light is fading and statues made of Christmas lights take the stage. Faces hurrying past the gluhwein oasis reflect the tungsten light and the scene is set for Christmas. In German that is known as Weinachten, which means consecrate [the] night. The greeting to use is
Frohe Weihnachten
A food stall manned by a Californian and a Swede-German serving Norwegian salmon in Finnish style. The name of the barbeque is .. and they found during their travels in Rovi..jarmi. As I strike up a conversation with a food ventor, I learn about the barbeque contraption they use. A formidable display of wrought iron craftmanship.
We step into one of the trinket stores and are met with red, green, and golden reflections from thousands of (literally) figurines, Christmas tree balls, and crystal glass sculptures. This is far from the plastics you would find in a supermarket. Christmas ornaments here are given the attention to detail and craft skills you may associate with artists of the past. Or the feel-good Christmas movie with the artisan craftsman you might watch over the holidays.
We are here and it is Christmas
Everywhere there are tiny shops with warm inviting tungsten light. Clearly reminiscent of past times when shops were small affairs (pun intended). Many here sell small Christmas ornaments. Some to place in Christmas trees, others to place on tables, such as detailed cribs carved from wood. In the midst of the buzzing food stalls and red Christmas lights it becomes clear, that all of central Essen has been turned into a Christmas market. Wherever we turn, there is yet another food stall or trinket vendor in the distance, in small wood cabins telling tales of times past. It is a time to rejoice with friends, eat good food and wind down after the year. And in Essen we find a lavish opportunity to do just that.
